March 30, 2010

I couldn’t let Rebecca and Lola leave without visiting Ljubljana.  So for the weekend we took the train and spent a day wandering around the old town.  We actually ran into Lisa (the other Fulbright in Ljubljana) at the castle who was also showing visiting friends around.  (I know a grand total of 3 people in the city, and I just happen to run into one of them on only my second visit?!)

Rebecca still wanted to try a gostilna before she had to leave, so we found one in the old town of Ljubljana that was supposed to be as close to a traditional gostilna as it gets in the city.  We had to doubt its authenticity when none of the customers spoke Slovene, but nonetheless, it was definitely a culinary adventure.  We had a thick dark bread, an assortment of grilled vegetables (the mushrooms were fantastic!), a “game platter” with several different types of starches and meats (each prepared differently – one with a pepper berry sauce, one with mushroom, and one with cherry), and refošk wine – a dark, slightly sour red that (I think?) is local to Istria.  It occurred to us – after the fact – that we should have taken a picture of the food.

Lola and Rebecca at the gostilna in Ljubljana

We stayed in Ljubljana for the night so that we didn’t have to rush to make the last train to Koper at 6pm, and they left first thing in the morning from there.  I didn’t see any reason to take the first train back to Koper, so I took a bus to Škofia Loka, about 20km outside of the city towards the Julian Alps.  It is one of the oldest settlements in Slovenia and has no less than 3 castles.  I really only visited the main castle with the town museum (the second was under construction, and I walked past the third twice before I realized that’s what I was looking at on my map).

The Sora River and the Julian Alps

Loški Grad

The museum at Loški Grad was pretty well done.  There was an especially interesting (and disturbing) display on the Nazi occupation of the area.  There was a thunderstorm while I was in the castle, but after that blew out, it actually turned out to be a pretty nice day.  I wandered around town, looked for Hudičeva brv – the “devil’s footbridge” – and eventually made my way back to Ljubljana and then Koper.  I grabbed a döner for dinner (a kind of crispy flatbread sandwich stuffed with shaved meats, vegetables, and a yogurt dressing), which I ate as I walked home from the train station.

The "devil's footbridge" - kind of a letdown, huh?

Painted beehive near Škofia Loka


One Response to “”

  1. Carolyn Nelson said

    Wow! How did we miss visiting Skofia Loka when we were in Slovenia?

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